What is "Clean”?
A short explanation of all those long words.
What is “clean"?” Many cosmetics companies claim that their products are “clean” and market their products in a way that suggests their products are sustainable and green. To get to the bottom of what defines “clean” beauty, I am going to look into Sephora’s prohibited ingredients in order for a product to be qualified as a “clean” beauty and investigate what these prohibited substances actually do to our environment.
Acrylates-Found in cosmetic nail preparations, mainly to apply artificial nails. Acrylates copolymer is a plastic found in many beauty cleaning products. Countries such as New Zealand have banned the use of microbeads in products, another form of microplastics.
Aluminum Salts- All natural deodorants claim to be free of this substance. This is partially because aluminum is a known skin irritant, but more so the fact that in large quantities, aluminum is toxic to freshwater organisms.
Animal Musks/ Fats/Oils (excluding Beeswax, Honey, Lanolin and Carmine)- In July 2021, Sephora added nitro musks and polycyclic musks to their list of prohibited substances. The environmental impact of using animal byproducts are well known. However, bee byproducts of lanolin (from sheep sebaceous glands), and carmine (derived from dried beetle shells) are not prohibited according to their guidelines.
Benzophenones and related compounds-This is a UV protectant found in many sunscreens, but it’s toxic to aquatic life. The product is exponentially more harmful because of the bioaccumulation of sunscreen in large bodies of water, such as lakes or the ocean.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)- This is a commonly used preservative, but has also been studied as a carcinogenic substance. This product affects the bioluminescence of some aquatic organisms and affects many aquatic plants.
Carbon Black or Black 2- Carbon black is used as a pigment in many eye, lip and face cosmetics products. When inhaled directly, it can cause extreme damage to human lungs. Black carbon is the second leading climate change contributor behind CO2, and absorbs huge amounts of energy according to Columbia Climate School, especially when released in large amounts, such as in factory production.
Coal Tar- Coal tar is a liquid that is formed during the burning of coal. It is commonly found in cleansing products and hair dyes. Coal tar also contains a large amount of carcinogens, such as PAHs (carcinogenic chemical class). PAHs are known to be toxic to aquatic wildlife, especially in water runoff where soap remnants can be found.
Ethanolamines-This compound is a common emulsifying agent in soaps, found in many self-care products. Ethanolamines compounds are known to form a carcinogen (nitrosodiethanolamine) absorbed through the skin when mixed with other chemicals.
Formaldehyde and Formaldehyde-releasing agents- This well-known carcinogen is often used as a preservative in beauty products. Despite not being bioaccumulative in its natural component form and not remaining in air, water and soil, formaldehyde can be extremely hazardous to wildlife.
Hydroquinone- Despite being less harmful to bacteria and fungi, hydroquinone is a known carcinogen and extremely harmful to aquatic life. Hydroquinone is now only in prescription beauty products, due to the 2020 CARES act. Currently, Tri-Luma, a dark spot treatment, is the only FDA-approved product that uses this chemical.
Lead and Lead Acetate- Lead is most commonly found in men’s hair dyes. Although lead poisoning is a common risk when ingesting or breathing the chemical, it is impossible to contract it with the form of lead found in cosmetics. However, studies show that lead may affect both humans’ and animals’ testicular functioning.
Mercury and Mercury Compounds (Thimerisol)- This is a substance found in eye makeup, such as eyeshadow and eyeliner, as well as some cleaning products. Mercury is also found in skin lightening products, and is shown to cause adverse, damaging medical effects on the kidneys and central nervous system.
Methyl Cellosolve (form of Methoxyethanol) - This ingredient is used as a solvent in many cosmetic products, most commonly nail polishes. Even though it dissolves in water and evaporates in air, it has short-term and slight long-term impacts on aquatic life.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone- These substances are forms of preservatives, and have been proven to cause eye and skin irritation. These ingredients are moderately toxic to freshwater and marine animals.
Mineral Oil- Mineral oils are often added to skincare and makeup products to decrease dehydration. When rinsed down drains, mineral oils are not fully biodegradable and can be harmful to marine life.
Octinoxate- Octinoxate is a UVB absorbing substance often found in sunscreen products. Octinoxate is on the European watch list for substances threatening aquatic life. Whenever swimmers wear sunscreen, they directly deposit this chemical into reef environments. The presence of this substance may increase the congregation of tissues. Marine organisms have shown signs of octinoxate contamination.
Oxybenzone- This compound is also typically found in sunscreens because it absorbs UV rays. Oxybenzone has been scientifically connected to coral bleaching. When corals metabolize oxybenzone, they absorb UV rays but cannot release the energy, causing cell damage.
Parabens- This is another common preservative that many beauty brands have begun to remove from their ingredient list. Parabens have been shown to cause harm to human health, specifically hormone production. However, parabens are typically removed from the environment through the natural photolysis process.
PFAS compounds- This ingredient is used in products made by companies such ads Nars, Clinique, Too Faced, and Urban Decay. The use of this substance has prohibitied all of these companies from Sephora’s “Clean Beauty” list. This substance is often used as a skin smoothing ingredient, but it can caus contamination of drinking water sources. Because of this, the EPA is taking steps to study and eventually regulate this chemical compound.
Phthalates- This substance is used to make nail polishes and hair sprays more flexible and less brittle. This plasticizer is used in many other industrial products, from tupperware to printing ink, causing it to be a widespread contaminant in many aquatic ecosystems.
Polyacrylamide and Acrylamide- These chemicals are used to stabilize and bind other active ingredients in skincare products. Acrylamide has been shown to have a chronic toxic presence in aquatic environments, but wastewater treatment facilities do not treat for it because it is highly water-soluble.
Retinyl palmitate- Retinyl palmitate is typically found in skincare to even texture and treat dark spots. This is a form of Vitamin A which, in copious amounts, can cause brittle nails and hair loss, among other more serious side effects. Overuse can also cause a higher risk of skin cancer. The environmental effects of this product have not been specifically studied as of now.
Styrene- This substance is used to create opacity in colored products, such as nail polish. It is toxic to aquatic wildlife, but less so to land animals. Styrene is classified as possibly carcinogenic to humans.
Sulfates- Sulfates are a common chemical that companies claim to avoid, but what is it? Sulfates are found in cleansing products like hand soap and shampoo, and contribute to the acidity of soil and surface water.
Toluene- Toluene is a chemical found in some nail polishes. Water and soil break down this chemical and it evaporates in the air, so it has short-term damage on aquatic life and is known to cause plant cell membrane damage.
Triclosan and Triclocarban-Triclosan and triclocarban is often found in soaps and other self-care products to help prevent contamination with bacteria. These substances are often found in runoff, and are not removed in wastewater treatment plants. In an aquatic environment, these substances can be extremely toxic to wildlife, such as algae, when exposed to sunlight.
Although the concentrations and methods that these products enter the environment are varied, products containing these chemicals stay on our faces just to be washed down our residential drains. The beauty industry is worth more than half a billion dollars. While the impact of toxins in everyday products may seem minimal, these contaminants build up in our environment. The huge beauty industry is taking strides to be more sustainable, which we can see through Sephora having a Clean Beauty list. Although the industry may be taking small steps towards an environmentally-friendly future, it is also our responsibility as consumers to understand the impact of our products and contribute to a greener beauty industry.